MID-COAST MAINE

Generations of lobstermen and lighthouse keepers, with their harrowing sea tales and no-nonsense heritage, still influence life in harbor-town Maine. While tourism is notable, it’s not sleek or fancy. The coast is rugged and authentic with a nostalgic feel that comes with a land layered in centuries of history.

Previously living on the east coast, we jump at opportunities to travel back. This time, circumstances in the wake of a global pandemic allowed for a month, some real silver lining. Our home would be a small rustic cottage in the village of Spruce Head on the St. George Peninsula, which advertised quick internet for remote working and beautiful coast-land for exploring — two necessities. Dated and simple and right on the water, it turned out to be an ideal spot for our family of six on a budget.

The hope was for concentrated time together enjoying a new landscape, discovering stories and people, and of course, finding tasty treats along the way.

Below is a quick, fly-over list of some of our favorite spots. We were within 15-30 minutes of Rockland, Rockport, and Camden, and even closer to a handful of beaches and restaurants. With four active children, most of our days were spent outdoors with experiences costing nothing. On the weekends my husband joined the fun. Alas, there are many other fantastic places to explore, and to which we kept saying, next time. 

Close to Home

McLoon’s Lobster Shack: Wonderful setting and our favorite lobster roll in Maine. The crab roll is also divine, as is the chocolate cream pie and blueberry bread pudding.

Lobster Lane Books: Dreamiest little bookshop and just a walk down the lane from our house. Vintage books $1-$3!

Thomaston Cafe: Amazing food (best crab cakes) with a quaint, local vibe. Make sure to look up the historically significant spots in Thomaston.

Flipside Coffee: Fresh-baked breakfast goodies, great coffee, and delicious bagel sandwiches.

Owl’s Head General Store: Quickly became our favorite lunch spot where we’d split the 7 Napkin Burger or the Turkey Reuben. Peaceful setting next to the historic post office. 

Owl’s Head Lighthouse and nearby rock beach: Gorgeous. Played for hours.

Keag’s General Store: Locals seem to frequent this smoky relic for breakfast sandwiches or fried lunch fare.

Atlantic Baking Co: Delicious breakfast pastries. The Prosciutto Parmesan Croissants and the Maple Sugar Buns are very special, as is the Butterscotch Pecan Blondie.

Couple-Hour Adventures

Birch Point Beach State Park: The kids loved playing here. Try to bring a chair, as the hard-packed sand is wet.

Beech Hill Preserve: Simple, beautiful hike. Stunning views at the top. Wonderful.

Camden: Owl and Turtle Bookshop & Cafe, Stone Soup Books, Harbor Dogs eaten on the hill overlooking the harbor, Smiling Cow giftshop and its back porch, Uncle Willie’s Candy Shop, drive or hike up Mt. Battie. We were also treated to a boat ride on the Lively Lady lobster boat and spent two hours learning about lobstering, cruising the water, and snapping pictures of seals. Highly recommend finding some way to get out on the water.

Rockport: Andre the Seal statue (learn about his story first!), Vesper Hill Children’s Chapel (so lovely), Barnswallow Books, Rosalie Joy’s Bakery

Rockland: Strand Theater, Lobster Shack, Farnsworth Museum and Giftshop (toured without children), Breakwater Lighthouse walk

Day Trips

Bar Harbor: 

Acadia National Park, historic Jordan Pond restaurant for popovers and jam, hike around Jordan Pond, drive up Cadillac Mountain, Dinner in Bar Harbor (for us, Side Street Cafe), Shops, Harbor views. When here before alone, the two of us really enjoyed a sea kayaking tour and hiking Cadillac Mountain.

Freeport:

Breakfast on the way at Treats in Wiscasset, L.L. Bean browsing and archery class, pizza at Derosier’s.

Portland:

Pitstop in Brunswick for Frosty’s Donuts and Harriet Beecher Stowe house (inspiring), pickleball in Deering Oaks Park, drive through Portland, visit gorgeous Portland Head Light, stopped through scenic Damariscotta at sunset on the way home.

Kennebunkport:

Only had a quick stopover here on a rainy day, but the fried clams at the Clam Shack were delicious.

Concord and Lexington, Massachusetts: 

Spent 24 hours here before flying out of Boston, and so glad we did. Very inspiring for literature and history lovers, though our children eventually groaned after one too many Oh look! Right there is where ___!

I was not deterred. Don’t miss Orchard House! Lovely lunch at the Colonial Inn (est 1716!) on Monument Square in Concord. Frozen custard on the lawn of the historic Buckman Tavern and the Battle Green in Lexington. Old North Bridge, etc, etc.

Feel free to download this run-down in PDF form so you can have it easily accessible on your device. Click below.

Stories For Children

Reading together is a cherished part of daily life for my children and me, and living in another home for a few weeks didn’t change that. I brought along some favorite picture books set in Maine and we found a few second-hand while there. (My older boys still nonchalantly crowd around when they hear a familiar picture book being read to the younger ones, much to my delight.)

In addition to picture books and chapter books, we sought out all kinds of stories about the area. Wild! Weird! Wonderful! Maine by Earl D. Brechlin traveled around with us for interesting facts. We researched the true stories behind some of the picture books and loved learning about Hilda Edwards, the inspiration for Miss Rumphius, Sal and her father from One Morning in Maine, and Abbie Burgess. After reading about Abbie, we drove a few minutes through the village to her tucked-away grave. Learning more about Barbara Cooney led us to stop by the bookstore she once co-owned in Damariscotta.

Reading these authors in the place they created their stories was very special. Here are a few children’s books you might want to check out if traveling to Maine with young ones, or just exploring somewhere new from your own couch at home, which is typically what you’ll find us doing!

One Morning in Maine, by Robert McCloskey

Miss Rumphius, by Barbara Cooney

Island Boy, by Barbara Cooney

Blueberries for Sal, by Robert McCloskey

Keep the Light Burning, Abbie, by Connie Roop

Seven Silly Eaters, by Mary Ann Hoberman

The Little Island, by Margaret Wise Brown

Lighthouse, by Sophie Blackall

Lobsterman, by Dahlov Ipcar, a Maine local

Lost on a Mountain in Maine, by Donn Fendler (my oldest read this true account)

The Circus Ship, by Chris Van Dusen, a Maine local

A Seal Called Andre, by Fran Hodgkins (haven’t yet read it, but we did watch “Andre the Seal”)

Enjoy!